We acquired a second vehicle. It is fun, gets near 60mpg, reliable, and cheap to insure. A year old with 1,100 miles. It cost $2000 less than new. Conventional wisdom says the first 1,000 miles on any vehicle are the worst. It is capable of reaching in excess of 60,000 miles before consideration of a new vehicle. -Which isn't much different than purchasing a Dodge.
For those which are familiar with how motorbikes are priced, you might feel $3,750 is significant. Comparatively, the 1982 bike I acquired a year ago was $1,000 out of pocket. Had to sell, was not worth the cost of fixing the cost to repair an oil leak. Sold at auction @ $500.
There is a good amount of confidence one has when they know everything works. Hearing the appropriate sounds. The winding of the motor, click of the buttons, and satisfying gear changes as it should straight from the factory. Knowing a replacement tire or battery or spark plug or brake pad or head lamp isn't right around the corner.
If you care about such matters, I will explain the process of decision.
Can't get any easier to find parts than a bike that hasn't changed much in 20 years worth of making the same model and selling to over a dozen countries. Ample aftermarket parts and tips. This does not come with a windscreen. Which screen looks good on the bike and is durable? There are a handful of different luggage options. Which option should I choose which isn't enormous when I don't need it? Which aftermarket seat is compatible with standing on the footpegs and riding hours on end? -Forums got you covered.
The 650cc dual sport is an incredibly popular variety. Kawasaki, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, BMW, KTM, Husqvarna, and Aprilia all have entered this arena. This is not by accident. Agile enough on the side streets and maintains 75mph without significant effort.
Dual sport bikes as a whole tend to be more durable and reliable. This comes from the assumption the bike will be pushed harder. Climbing steep hills, crossing shallow rivers, crossing logs & large rocks. It is not uncommon for these bikes to ride in sand and mud.
In the price range, the European motos were out of the question. This leaves Kawasaki, Honda, and Suzuki. From what I have read, the Honda XR650 is the best of the three off road. Highly recognized running Baja races. It is understood the bike does not do tarmac well.
Affordability, reliability, and capability directs the focus to
either the Kawasaki KLR 650 or Suzuki DR 650. Better long distance ride; KLR. Better off road; DR. Better gas mileage; DR. Larger fuel tank; KLR. Lighter; DR. Windscreen; KLR. Exhaust note; DR. Comfortable seat; KLR. Less things to go wrong; DR. Oil temp gauge; KLR. Handling at lower speeds; DR. Liquid cooled engine; KLR. More powerful engine; DR.
It is not an easy decision. In fact, I made offers on both bikes. If conditions were right, might be riding something different. Glad it went the way it did. The KLR sounds like a riding lawnmower at low speeds. The color scheme does not match my jacket and helmet.
I would not consider myself an expert on reviewing motorized cycles. Below is what some are saying about my new ride.
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To put it shortly the DR is a great commuter, not bad for an occasional belt around the bush, is reasonably practical for long-distance touring, is cheap to run when compared to a road bike, and incredibly reliable." -mcnews.com.au
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The reason you’ll be buying the DR is most likely the bulletproof air-cooled 644cc four-stroke, OHC engine. It is fuel efficient, especially in the low and mid-range, where the best of power is being delivered." - topspeed.com
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Right out of the gate the DR not only competed with the KLR, but distanced itself from it by a large margin of dirt performance." - motorcycle-usa.com
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The air-cooled motor spins up faster than the KLR and with more punch everywhere in the rev range." - motorcycle-usa.com
Engine 644 cc, 4-stroke, single cylinder, SOHC, 4-valve, air/oil cooled, 9.5:1 compression
Power 43 hp (32 kW)
Suspension Telescopic fork, link type swingarm
Weight 865 mm (34.1 in)
Overall Height 1195 mm (47.0 in), Low seat 1155mm (45.5 in.)
Seat Height 885 mm (34.8 in), Low seat 845 mm (33.0 in.)
Weight 147 kg (320 lb)
Fuel capacity 13 l (3.4 US gal)
But nothing is perfect. From the factory the hand grips cause blisters (PITA to remove throttle side), seat is hard and narrow, foot pegs are narrow and positioned too high. It also, doesn't come with a skid plate. Replaced the hand grips (had to get a 2nd set -first install failed), new seat, and lowered pegs. Cost $520. Ride on the highway enough times and you'll feel the need to install a windscreen. This is another $150. Good thing I grabbed the bike for less than retail to cover these costs.
One might point out the more comfortable seat and grips, skid plate, and windscreen are standard in the KLR. This makes the Kawasaki a better value, right? I don't know about that. I feel the stronger motor and handling are much more expensive to enhance than the comfort of the bike. If I had the Kawasaki, I think I would quickly install a different muffler.
An extra appreciation of my bike was when I swapped bikes with my brother and his KLR. He seemed to find it more exhilarating kicking up dirt than his own.
I think the Suzuki looks better, especially when I installed a supermoto front fender. Have received a handful of compliments.
